Tuesday, February 21, 2012

ShivaRatri

My mind cannot wrap itself around what just took place. Words cannot do justice to the mass devotion of which we took part in. I try to harmonize myself with the pilgrims around me but this experience is unlike anything I have or likely ever will experience again. Even writing these words is a labor. My eyes are strained from not blinking all day for fear of missing a moment and now they struggle to stay open as my third eye fights them to process, on a higher level, all that we were witness to...

On the 13th of 14th day, when the moon begins to wane, in the Hindu month of Phalgun (February-March) hundreds of thousands of Hindus pilgrimage to Pashupati Temple in Kathmandu - one of the largest Shiva temples in the world. Shiva, the destroyer or transformer God, was married to Parvati on this day.The devotees flock here to collectively worship in the grace of Shiva. It is believed that "He who utters the Names of Shiva during Shivaratri, with perfect devotion and concentration, is freed from all sins. He reaches the abode of Shiva and lives there happily. He is liberated from the wheel of births and deaths." Barefoot and bleary eyed, they line up at dawn, if not the night before and wait. As we walked around, unblinking and jaws agape, there was no end for the line into the temple in sight. As the day wore on, the temple grounds and streets surrounding were turned into a Holy Hindu festival. Tents had been erected for singing and dancing. Vendors lined the streets selling every imaginable item. Inside Temple grounds, rows upon rows of Tikka givers were happy to adorn worshippers with blessings and Holi powder on their third eyes. Hundreds of thousand of devotees, all there for the same purpose...

Sadhus, Hindu Holy men, hold Shiva in particular high favor. For many of them, Pashupati is a pilgrimage that is made every year. From one man, we learned that he had travelled on foot from India, taking about two weeks to reach Nepal. This is not something he will do but once in his life, as a Muslim may Mecca. But for these men, Pashupati IS Mecca. They will journey here again and again. They sleep near the temple in makeshift camps for the days leading up to the festival, givings thanks in their own ways to Shiva and then upon the Holy day, they line the river and take over the small surrounding shrines. They set up alters, offer Tikka's and blessings, indulge in particular medicinals which are legal on this day only and then pose for pictures. Asking in return, of course, for a small donation.

It will take some time to process all that we have been witness to. Perhaps as long as it takes for the Sadhu to walk the same path back to India. In the meantime... Om Namah Shivaya


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