The Melody and the Madness

No more than two steps out of our guesthouse we are offered: a taxi ride, a rickshaw ride, a trekking guide, tiger balm, incense, knives, a yak wool scarf, a down jacket, a violin, wool hats, wool gloves, wool sweaters, wool leg warmers, wool EVERYTHING! All this within a half a block. The onslaught continues throughout our neighborhood. Somehow through it all there is a melody. We simply smile, bow our heads with our hands in prayer and move on. The gesture is returned.

As in many places on this side of earth, incense is omnipresent. Here perhaps more than anywhere. Hindus and Bhuddists alike, blend their scents to create a harmonic blessing. The combined efforts swirl around us and leave my hair blessed with the scent of prayer at days end. Candles made from Ghee are lit everywhere and offerings are left in the most unassuming of places.

Cows lay down in the street, in the garbage, in the temples, wherever they please really. Their sacredness protects them in a halo of Hinduism. Not so lucky however, are the goats and chickens laid out on tables in the street, soon to be dinner.

Children run in the streets, many looking after younger siblings while their parents, if they are lucky, are out providing for their families. We pass by small store fronts where men are busy stuffing down jackets and sewing on "North Face" labels. Later to be sold in some tourist shop for 5x what a local will pay. Sari clad women beckon you in through hobbit size doors, urging you to buy incense and bangles. More traditionally dressed Nepalese women walk by us counting their mantras on their prayer beads.

It's both melody and madness. Garbage is everywhere as are sweet smiles and music. Nepal is a juxtaposition. A country clinging to ancient traditions and yet being forced to move forward. The current population in Kathmandu far exceeds it's capacity. Electricity runs only for certain hours, in different neighborhoods on different days. Water and gas are precious commodities. The air quality is horrendous at best and public health is in crisis. Yet even still, we have never felt more welcome anywhere else. The Nepalese have a beautifully open relationship with their gods and are grateful for their existence, giving all the love the can in this life to be rewarded in the next...

We are so thankful to be here and simply, to be here now.